The mid Island area contains high quality crags. We strongly recommend the excellent Nanaimo Crags guidebook, published by one of our Honorary Lifetime Members, Ryan Kurytnik, which is now on its 6th edition. The book contains all the info you will need for all Nanaimo area crags for sport, trad and mixed climbing, including detailed directions, drawings and crucial route information. It is available at the Romper Room and Valhalla Pure Outfitters.
Here is a brief overview of some of the climbing areas in the mid Island:
Located on the north side of the river, Sunny Side is a breathtaking setting on two levels (upper and lower). The upper section has numerous beginner to advanced sport and trad routes on sandstone and conglomerate which are climbable for much of the year due to the full sun exposure and constant river wind. The lower section contains fewer rope routes but an ever expanding number (currently many dozens) of boulders on river rock that are seasonally available and range from V0 to V10+.
IMPORTANT: it is very important that no climbing take place at sunny side within 3 days of heavy rain. This is crucial as the rock is very delicate after rain.
Located on the south side of the river, with a different approach than Sunny Side, the Dark Side is a local favorite due to its high quality rock, excellent intermediate to advanced routes, and overall jurassic feel. Most of the routes are bolted with a few trad. Dark Side gets virtually no direct sun and is notably cooler, making it ideal for the peak of summer.
Multiple crags make up this area located in the middle of Nanaimo. An excellent area to bring newcomers due to the very easy approach and easily accessible top rope set ups. The area also contains exceptional intermediate routes and a selection of expert routes (5.12 and above). Mostly bolted with a small amount of trad on excellent basalt.
Mt. Benson looms over all of Nanaimo to the west and contains multiple climbing areas, some with multiple crags in an area. Lower Benson has multiple longer mixed and sport routes on excellent basalt. Upper Benson has many sport, trad and mixed routes. The recently developed crags of Longview and Northwood contain some of the highest quality rock to be found anywhere, including some routes that require a 70m rope.
Located behind Westwood Lake, this area offers excellent moderate to expert climbing on solid basalt. The routes are sport, trad and mixed with good top access.
Horne Lake contains perhaps the greatest concentration of expert level climbs in Western Canada. With multiple areas, Horne is a climbing jewel.
IMPORTANT: it is crucial that all climbers at Horne bring the highest level of respect to the area or access can be lost.
Located near the Duke Point ferries, this area contains several boulders on sandstone with easy to expert boulders. A very easy approach once you find it!
Located near Port Alberni, Sutton Pass has hundreds of boulders in two main areas. A long drive from Nanaimo (90 minutes) is balanced by a very short approach on foot, and some world class boulders are your reward.
MICA cannot stress enough how much our continued access to climbing areas is based on our actions at the crag. We must all follow the Climbers Code of Respect. This code was put together by Rock Respect with input from access groups across Canada. If you love your crags and do not want to see them closed, it is crucial to follow these guidelines.
Outdoor climbing poses many safety concerns that are not present in a climbing gym. Make sure that you are properly prepared for rock climbing outside.
Climbing areas are more environmentally sensitive than you may think. Lead by example and leave the cliff cleaner than you found it.
Please be respectful of landowners and other people at the cliff. Stay educated about cliff rules, as well as any cliff access issues that may be present.
Local access groups and volunteers have fought hard to keep climbing areas open. It is imperative that you be on best behavior to keep it that way. Stay educated on climbing area access considerations
Who’s liable if you get hurt? You are. It is crucial that you understand the risks of climbing, obtain sufficient training to mitigate the risks, and follow safe practices at the crag.
What does the Occupiers Liability Act mean?
Whelm has been a climber for 8 years and started MICA as a way to give back to the community and sport he holds so dear. An entrepreneur, business manager and consultant, Whelm has worked in the arts, media, law, agriculture and cannabis.
Favorite local climb? Last summer I fell in love with Boogie Chillin’ 11C at Darkside.
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